Facing in sewing refers to a technique used to finish and reinforce the edges of a garment or other fabric project. It involves sewing a piece of fabric to the raw edges of a garment, usually at the neckline, armholes, or waist, to provide a clean, finished look and to prevent the fabric from fraying or unraveling. Facing serves both a functional and aesthetic purpose, ensuring the durability of the garment while also contributing to its overall appearance.
What is Facing in Sewing?
Facing is a method where a piece of fabric is sewn to the raw edges of a garment’s interior, then turned to the inside and stitched down to hide or finish the raw edges. Typically, facing is used in areas where a hem would be difficult or impossible to use, such as around necklines, armholes, and waistbands. It helps to keep these areas neat, tidy, and free from the unfinished, raw edges of fabric.
Facings are often made from the same fabric as the garment to create a seamless look, but in some cases, they can be made from a different fabric, especially if a contrasting fabric is desired for decorative or functional reasons.
Types of Facing in Sewing
There are several types of facing techniques used in sewing, each serving a slightly different purpose depending on the garment and desired result. The most common types of facing include:
Neckline Facing: This is one of the most common types of facing. It is used to finish the raw edges of a neckline, ensuring the fabric is neatly finished and doesn’t fray. Neckline facings are cut in a way that they fit the shape of the neckline, and once sewn, they are pressed and turned to the inside of the garment. This provides a clean, professional finish around the neck area.
Armhole Facing: Similar to neckline facings, armhole facings are used to finish the raw edges around the armholes. This is especially useful for sleeveless garments or when making garments with a particular fit where the armholes need a clean edge. The armhole facing is sewn to the inside of the armhole and then turned under to create a smooth finish.
Waistline Facing: Waistline facings are used in skirts, pants, and dresses to finish the waistline edges. They help to provide structure to the garment and prevent the waistband from stretching or becoming flimsy. A waistline facing can either be a full facing that covers the entire waist or a partial facing that only covers part of the waist area.
Bias Facing: A bias facing is made from fabric cut on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grainline). This allows the fabric to stretch and conform to curved areas like necklines and armholes. Bias facings are often used when a more flexible, forgiving finish is needed.
How to Make and Apply Facing
Creating and applying facing to a garment is a relatively straightforward process. Here’s a basic overview of the steps involved:
Cut the Facing Pieces: First, cut the facing pieces according to the pattern instructions. You will typically need one facing piece for the front and one for the back. The size and shape of the facings are designed to match the garment’s edges.
Sew the Facing to the Garment: Place the right side of the facing fabric against the right side of the garment’s edge (e.g., the neckline, armhole, or waist). Pin or baste the fabric in place, and then sew along the edge using a regular stitch.
Clip and Trim the Seam Allowance: Once the facing is sewn to the garment, it’s important to trim any excess fabric and clip the curved edges to allow for a smooth finish when the facing is turned to the inside. This helps prevent puckering and bulk at the edges.
Turn the Facing to the Inside: Carefully turn the facing to the inside of the garment, press the seam flat, and fold the facing down to create a clean edge. The facing should completely cover the raw edge of the fabric.
Secure the Facing: Finally, the facing needs to be secured in place. You can stitch the facing down along the neckline or armhole, or you can tack the facing down by hand in places where it may not be as easily visible. This will keep the facing from flipping back out of the garment.
Why Use Facing in Sewing?
Facing is essential for several reasons:
Clean Finish: Facing provides a neat and polished finish to the inside of garments. It hides the raw edges of the fabric, creating a professional and clean appearance, which is especially important for garments that are worn close to the skin, such as dresses and tops.
Durability: By reinforcing the edges of a garment, facings help prevent the fabric from fraying over time. This adds to the garment’s longevity and ensures it maintains its structure, even after multiple washes.
Structure and Support: In some cases, facings can provide additional structure to the garment, particularly around the neckline, armholes, and waist. This makes the garment fit better and ensures it maintains its shape.
Preventing Stretching: In garments made from knit fabrics, facings can help stabilize the edges and prevent them from stretching out of shape. This is particularly useful when working with stretchy fabrics that may not hold best mini sewing machine their shape on their own.
Alternatives to Facing
While facing is a common technique in garment construction, there are alternatives that can be used depending on the desired result. Some alternatives include:
Binding: A strip of fabric is sewn around the raw edge of the garment, similar to bias tape, to create a finished look.
Hong Kong Finish: This technique involves encasing the raw edges of the fabric with bias binding to create a clean, professional finish.
Piping: Piping can be used around necklines or armholes to add decorative detail while also finishing the edges.
Conclusion
Facing is a versatile and essential technique in sewing, used to finish the raw edges of a garment and ensure a polished, professional look. Whether used at the neckline, armholes, or waist, facing adds structure, durability, and visual appeal to the garment. By understanding how to make and apply facing, sewists can create garments that are both beautiful and functional, with clean finishes and long-lasting wearability.